The Best Seafood in Croatia? A Lunch Stop at Kapentanova Kuca Restaurant, Ston, Peljesac Peninsula

Restaurant Review by Saron Lease, Croatia Gems Company Founder & Director, 14th April 2018,

Driving down from Split to Dubrovnik a couple of days ago, it would be rude not to stop for lunch at Kapentanova Kuca Restaurant in Ston at the start of the Peljesac Peninsula – 2 words – seafood and wine!

This is the wine region of southern Dalmatian and is also renowned for its top class shellfish, oysters and seafood. I’d been before but at the end of the summer, and just passing through we’d just planned a short bite. But 3 hours later, we’d had the most memorable meal and seemed to have got through 3 courses! There’s something to be said for coming here early season when it’s quiet, the food was outstanding as usual – it’s a class above with the best ingredients on the doorstep, but the presentation this time was beautiful and the service was lovely. Our waiter, Stijepo, was great, really attentive and made the whole lunch a real treat.

We started with a simple couvert which incidentally just arrives and you will find on the bill – most restaurants in Dubrovnk are now doing this. Still it’s an interesting start to the meal – we had warm local bread and fish pate (a normal couvert in Croatia and very scrummy) but this came with a pot of tiny whole fish (a tenth of the size of whitebait) in olive oil, beautifully presented with rosemary.

Next we had ordered fish soup – a favourite of mine because it is delicious, home-made, always makes you feel good – it’s a cure-all and I must admit I had had one too many of the local wine the night before! It’s slightly different where ever you go but you always know what you’re going to get. It was…the best fish soup I have had to date. The aroma was just divine, really fresh, with plenty of olive oil. And again, the presentation was beautiful. The olive oil was also heavenly – you can tell a good olive oil in Croatia if it’s almost the consistency and colour of liquid honey, and smells divine – it’s several cuts above what we might buy in England.. This, you could pour onto your plate and eat with bread alone, so tasty was it… At that point a glass of white Korcula Posip was required and I have to say I would have happily dined on fish soup and the wine alone – but we had already ordered our main course.

I had chosen seafood spaghetti but this was something else – 3 different kinds of fresh spaghetti with salmon and prawns in a cream (and I can only surmise as it was so more-ish, truffle ) sauce. Enough for 3. My husband had the slightly healthier grilled baby squid with vegetables, but of course had to help me with the pasta. To add to the proceedings Stijepo arived with a spaghetti eating bib! Most hilarious but quite normal apparently. This was to be a serious spaghetti affair! I love how the Croatians are so passionate about their food, it’s such an event,

Well, we had such a nice meal…Everything looked beautiful  and the location is always pretty – even at this time of year, the muted blue, green and grey hues  against the old pale stone on the sea edge, and the little boats are so relaxing.

We only had one glass of wine each and we didn’t have a desert . The deserts were all displayed in a glass cabinet and looked fantastic – especially the traditional walnut pasta cake! Always something interesting and traditional to try in Croatia… Our bill came to 340 Kuna – about £40. Of course we could have really gone to town, and this is the kind of place it is worth going to town for the fresh ingredients and high standard of cooking and tastes, but as a fairly short lunch stop, we felt this was wonderful value for the quality of food we were served.  If I could, I’d go right back tomorrow, it’s making my mouth water to write about it!

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